The Marrow

Bone Marrow - Photo by Anastasia Vener

Bone Marrow - Photo by Anastasia Vener

Bone marrow is a magical, yet at the same time, frightful dish.  To serve, one must split a bone in half and roast the bones to cook the marrow, which is then scooped out and spread on toasted bread.  Voilà, Meat Butter.  The Marrow is Harald Dieterle's third restaurant following the success of his first two restaurants, Perilla and Kin Shop.  The Marrow's menu takes inspiration from Dieterle's parental roots, marrying food from his German father's family with his mother's Italian side.  This includes pastas and schnitzels on the same menu as well as the restaurant namesake Bone Marrow.

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My meal started with the Marrow cocktail, a beautiful and frothy aperitif served in a champagne flute.  Made with gin, lemon and sage, there was just enough citrus to get the taste buds awakened.  The first dish ordered was the Bone Marrow.  A beautufully roasted piece of half bone topped with dollops of uni, a scattering of celery greens and finished with off with a lemon aioli.  This was served with toasted rustic bread slices so you could scoop out the goodness and spread it on the toast to enjoy.  The sea urchin added a nice saltiness to the marrow and spread evenly with it.  Heaven on toast....

Fluke Crudo - photo by Anastasia Vener

Fluke Crudo - photo by Anastasia Vener

This was followed perfectly with a Fluke Crudo that sat in a spicy passionfruit broth.  This had both a nice citrus and spice to cut through the creamy and fatty marrow eaten just moments before.  The crudo was sliced perfectly and played well with the passionfruit broth.

 

For the Main course I wanted to try a more "German"dish so I ordered the Pan-Fried Duck Schnitzel and Buttermilk Fried Quail.   I have had many a schnitzel, but never one with duck.  This proved to be incredibly juicy with a perfect crunchy exterior and served with quark spaetzle, stewed wolfberries and a traditional cucumber-potato salad.  While the spaetzle really didn't do much for me, the wolfberries were a great addition pairing fantastically with the duck by adding a nice citrus and sweetness to the schnitzel.  I always love the traditional cucumber and potato salad and this stood up to the best of them.

Pan-Fried Duck Schnitzel - photo by Anastasia Vener

Pan-Fried Duck Schnitzel - photo by Anastasia Vener

The Fried Quail came with two quails fried to very nicely to give a crunchy crust while keeping the meat moist inside.  But the real star of this dish and what could be the side of the year, the Foie Gras Polenta.  Whoever came up with this was a mad, evil genius.  Smooth creamy polenta with lobes of decadent foie gras melted within. 

Fried Quail - photo by Anastasia Vener

Fried Quail - photo by Anastasia Vener

The space, which was French brasserie Paris Commune before still retains some of it's brasserie feel to it.  It is casual and comfy and the service is warm and friendly.  This is another great option in restaurant heavily populated West Village.

THE MARROW